How to Use Rock Climbing Holds
Climbing isn’t just about strength—it’s about strategy. And that strategy starts with your hands and feet. Whether you're pulling yourself up in a gym or navigating real rock outdoors, understanding how to use climbing holds efficiently can make or break your climb.
The trick isn’t to just grab and go—it’s about learning how to grip smarter, not harder.
Before diving into the types of holds, let’s lock in two key principles that apply to every hold you’ll use:
Two Golden Rules for Using Climbing Holds
1. Don’t Over-Grip
Squeeze only as much as needed to stay on. Over-gripping is a fast-track to pumped-out forearms. The more relaxed your grip, the longer you’ll last.
2. Pull in the Right Direction
Every hold has an optimal direction of pull. Aim to pull perpendicular to the face of the hold. Align your body to this direction to reduce strain and increase control.
Alright—now let’s meet the most common climbing holds and how to handle each one.
Types of Climbing Holds & How to Use Them
🧗♂️ Jug (aka Bucket)
What it is: Big, comfy, and deep enough for your whole hand.
Use it like this:
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Great for resting or catching your breath.
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Engage your entire hand, relax your grip, and let your fingers curl naturally.
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Ideal for beginners or steep routes where you need a secure hold.
Pro Tip: Shift your hips under the jug and hang your body weight to reduce arm strain.
🪨 Edge or Ledge
What it is: A flat, horizontal hold that can vary in size—from a fingertip edge to a full-on ledge.
Use it like this:
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Use open-handed grip when possible to save your tendons.
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Find the direction of pull—edges can be horizontal, vertical, or diagonal.
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Position your feet directly underneath to keep weight on your legs.
Pro Tip: Push with your toes rather than just pulling with your hands.
✋ Crimp
What it is: A tiny edge—just enough space for your fingertips.
Grip options:
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Open Crimp: Fingers slightly bent, no thumb involved. Less strain, safer.
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Closed Crimp: Knuckles fully bent with your thumb over your index finger. Powerful but risky for your tendons.
Use it like this:
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Get close to the wall to maximise leverage.
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Use only when you need to—save your fingers for harder sections.
Pro Tip: Crimping with cold fingers is a no-go. Warm up first.
🤏 Pinch
What it is: A hold that sticks out enough for you to grab with your fingers on one side and thumb on the other.
Use it like this:
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Keep your thumb engaged—it's the powerhouse of this grip.
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Squeeze just enough to stay on without burning out early.
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Stay tight through your core to reduce grip effort.
Pro Tip: Keep your wrist neutral and engage your shoulder for better control.
🌀 Sloper
What it is: A round, slopey hold with no clear edge or grip point.
Use it like this:
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Use open hands and press your palm and fingers flat against the surface.
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Rely on body tension and footwork to stay balanced.
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Look for subtle dimples or bulges for better friction.
Pro Tip: Stay low and still. Don’t fidget—you’ll slip.
What it is: A hole in the wall or rock that fits one to several fingers.
Use it like this:
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Lead with your middle finger—it’s your strongest.
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Avoid deep finger stacking unless the pocket is big enough.
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Keep a relaxed grip and stay mindful of tendon strain.
Pro Tip: Two-finger pockets are safer than monos (one-finger)—use full-hand grips when possible.
⬇️ Undercling
What it is: A hold you grip from underneath, pulling upward instead of down.
Use it like this:
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Use high feet to push your hips up and over the hold.
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Pull outward and upward with your hands while stepping high with your feet.
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Maintain body tension to avoid swinging out.
Pro Tip: Underclings are ideal for transitioning to a better hold or foothold.
📏 Flake
What it is: A thin sheet or chunk of rock partially detached from the wall.
Use it like this:
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Lay back with one hand pulling and one pushing on your feet.
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Jam hands or fingers in the crack behind the flake if needed.
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Keep your body weight leaning away to increase friction.
Pro Tip: Flakes can flex—test their stability before committing.
🦌 Horn
What it is: A protrusion or “hook”-shaped hold that you can grab behind.
Use it like this:
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Wrap your hand around it and pull toward your body.
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Use it as a resting point or gear placement anchor in trad climbing.
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Some horns even allow you to sling them for protection.
Pro Tip: Horns are usually bomber—use them to reset or recover mid-route.
Final Tips for Mastering Climbing Holds
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Climb with your eyes first: Always look for the direction of pull before grabbing.
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Trust your feet: Strong feet take pressure off your hands.
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Breathe and relax: Tension = fatigue. Stay loose until you need to lock in.
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Watch others: Observe how experienced climbers handle the same holds.
Your Responsibility: Climb Smart
Your safety depends on your technique, judgement, and proper instruction. This guide is a great place to start, but nothing beats hands-on learning with an experienced coach or partner. Practice, ask questions, and stay curious.
Rock climbing isn’t just about making it to the top—it’s about how you get there. Learning how to use each hold effectively will not only make you a better climber but a safer one, too.
